The following article appeared in Nifty Notions - Judy's column in "Into Craft", the Community Newsletter from the Organizers of the Shows we attend. It is reproduced here with their kind permission.

WHICH NEEDLE TO USE WHEN?

Judy Hall reviews the vast array of hand sewing needles available today.

Choosing the right needle for your sewing can become confusing with so many to select from these days. Gone are the days when a Sharp Needle was used for everything and cotton was the only thread available.

Today we can choose from: Appli-Bond, Ballpoint, Beading, Bead Weaving, Betweens, Bodkins, Chenille, Cording, Darners, Yarn Darners, Doll, Double-Eye, Easy or Self-Threading, Embroidery or Crewel, Felting, Glovers or Leather, Hawaiian Quilting, Huck, Milliners or Straw, Punchneedles, Re Weaving, Ribbon Weaving, Sailmakers, Sashico, Sharps, Sharps Carpet, Spiral Eye, Tapestry, Twin-Point Quick Stitch, Twin-Point Stab Stitch, Tatting, Trapunto, Upholstery and Wool Needles.

The most common questions I am asked is ‘Which needle do I use for candlewicking?’ or ‘for cross-stitch?’ A candlewick expert confirmed to me her favourite is a Crewel Embroidery Needle #6 or a Chenille #22. Cross-Stitchers prefer a fine Tapestry Needle or a Crewel Embroidery Needle which is smaller with a sharper point. You will soon learn what your own preferences are and what better suits your own style. I have prepared a complete explanation of each needle and its use which you may find helpful in choosing the correct needle for each project. http://www.punchwithjudy.com.au/needles.pdf

Using the right needle for a project makes the stitching so much easier. When choosing a needle size, consider the thread you wish to use and the type of fabric you are working with, the length of the needle and maybe its shape and pliability. If in doubt, purchase an assorted size pack. It’s advisable to test the needle size in an inconspicuous part of the garment, such as a seam allowance, to make sure a hole is not left by using too large a needle size. Does it pass through the fabric easily? Will it allow the thread you wish to use to be threaded easily? Which size leaves the smallest hole in your fabric?

Choose a high quality needle from a reputable brand – it is well worth the investment because they won’t snag or damage your thread. Less expensive needles are not made of quality steel and have less quality control; even the smallest burr inside the needle eye will shear, damage or break your thread. Inexpensive needles are fine for sewing on the odd button or taking up the occasional hem as quality wouldn’t be as important, but if you are embroiderer or quilter you want the best and most suitable available.

Needles date back to the Stone Age and certainly the Romans left elaborate traces of their sewing technology. Today we have so many more choices – Stainless Steel, Platinum, Teflon-coated, Titanium-coated and ones with a Gold-Eye for easier threading.

Hand sewing needles are available in varying sizes with varying points but the most common is ‘Sharps’ which are of medium length with a round eye hole. The smaller the number size on the needle packet, the larger the needle, or, the higher the number size on the needle packet, the finer the needle. The opposite of what logic would have us think!

Judy’s Tips:

• Various Needle Threaders are available to assist those with diminishing eyesight or shaky hands. You may also like to use a Needle Grabber to assist with pulling a needle through a heavier fabric or difficult situation.
• Beeswax or Thread Heaven Thread Conditioner certainly helps threads from twisting and tangling when being used and also strengthens the thread.
• Tame those threads from curls, kinks and twists with a Thread Straightener.
• Maintain your needles for longer use by storing them when not being used in an Emery Strawberry (helps maintain the sharpness and prevents rusting), Magnetic Needle Case, Needle Book, Wooden Needle Case or Tube and, of course, a Pincushion. Cheap pincushions are filled with anything at all which may scratch or damage your needles and pins, so be careful to choose one filled with sawdust; a ball of wool felt is excellent too.
• Improve the needle sharpness by passing it through some fine grit sandpaper or felted needle sharpening pad – even use some steel wool.
• Use a thimble to prevent sore fingertips when sewing for extended periods.
• Use a magnifier to thread needles or even for sewing.
• Wet the eye of the needle, not your thread, to make threading a needle easier.
• Only use good quality thread.
• Use a telescopic magnet to pick up dropped needles and pins.
• Replace well-used needles; they don’t last forever.

Products mentioned are available from good haberdashery retail outlets or from Punch with Judy, a regular exhibitor at Craft & Quilt Fairs and Craft and Sewing Shows.

Judy Hall has prepared a complete explanation of each needle and its use which you may find helpful in choosing the correct needle for each project: Click here for the Hand Sewing Needle Guide.