Pleatmakers - How to Use
Punch with Judy manufactures a range of Pleat Makers in various sizes and is proud to now be exporting them to Europe and USA as well as retailing them via our website
Pleat Makers are the most exciting and fascinating sewing accessory I’ve ever used. Whether they are used for dressmaking, quilting, home decorating, doll’s clothes, doll’s house furnishing, textured art or craft projects, the versatility of their use still amazes me and, in fact, I’m still learning different ways to use each of them.
It should be noted that we do not claim the Pleat Makers to permanently pleat fabric nor are they designed to pleat skirts. For this, you will need to take fabric to a Dry Cleaner to have the pleating done professionally with a different type of process.
Let me demonstrate how to pleat fabric using the Regular Pleat Maker.
What you will need is a Pleat Maker with Pleater Bar, Steam Iron, Spray Starch (optional), Rajah Cloth™ (an absolute must), Reynolds Freezer Paper (optional, but it makes it easier), Fusi-Knit Interfacing (lightweight adhesive tricot interfacing) and a firm surface to work upon.
- Place the Pleat Maker on a smooth surface in front of you having the louvres of the Pleat Maker facing away from you. Lay a piece of fabric, right side up, on the top of the Pleat Maker. Tuck the fabric into the first louvre closest to you with your fingers by lifting the louvre and lightly easing the fabric in with your fingers as if you were playing a piano.
- Place the Pleater Bar into this pleat to make sure the fabric is in evenly and deep into the underneath crease which we call the return of the pleat. Leave the bar in place and pleat the next pleat in the same way with your fingers again.
- Continue in this manner until the fabric is pleated as desired. Note: If you have more fabric to pleat than the width of the Pleat Maker allows in one operation, then refer to the instructions that accompany the Pleat Maker for pleating either longer widths or longer lengths of fabric.
- Place a Rajah Cloth™ over the pleated fabric and iron with a steam iron. Must be with steam in order to release the chemicals impregnated in the Rajah Cloth™ so as the pleats are as close to permanent as possible.
- Remove the Rajah Cloth™ and place a piece of Reynolds Freezer Paper, the size of the Pleat Maker or slightly larger, over the top of the pleated fabric, having the shiny side face down. Iron lightly to temporarily hold the pleated fabric to the Freezer Paper.
- Turn the Pleat Maker over and gently roll the Pleat Maker away from you releasing the fabric from it. The pleated fabric will remain adhered to the Freezer Paper so the pleats will still be held firmly in place.
- Iron a piece of Fusi-Knit Interfacing onto the wrong side of the pleated fabric making sure that the interfacing doesn’t touch the Freezer Paper. The Fusi-Knit holds the pleats permanently into place enabling the pleated fabric to be washed safely and eliminating the need for any stitching to secure the pleats.
- Remove the Freezer Paper and note that this same piece may be used several times for future fabric pleating.
- Voila! A perfectly pleated piece of fabric!
- CONGRATULATIONS! Now the fun begins. What are we going to do with this?
The simplest practice is to pleat some fabric and make a set of Placemats. Pleating takes 3 times the width of fabric, so it is simple to calculate how much fabric to pleat.
Placemats - show the framing method of placing a pleated fabric rectangle inside the fabric frame. Use the Double Mitred Ruler to make an easy “frame”. This method uses the backing fabric brought over to the front as a border and has the corners mitred.
Appliqué:
Trace the desired appliqué shape onto the Vliesofix. Iron Vliesofix onto the Fusi-Knit side of the pleated fabric. Straight stitch just inside the traced lines. Cut out on the traced lines. Remove the paper from the Vliesofix and iron the appliqué into position onto your project. Satin Stitch, blanket stitch or fancy stitch around the raw edges of the appliqué to secure.
Patchwork:
To use a piece of pleated fabric instead of a fabric piece, simply pleat your fabric, draw the shape you desire onto the Fusi-Knit side of the pleated fabric, stitch within the seam allowance of the template shape, then cut out on the traced lines. Use the pleated fabric shape as you would normally for regular fabric in patchwork. Try not to use a pleated fabric next to another pleated fabric as the bulk of the seam allowance becomes difficult to lay flat. Try to have a plain fabric next to a pleated fabric.
Tortured Tucks:
Gentle ripply waves may be achieved across the pleated fabric by “tipping” the pleats and stitching them in rows. If the pleated fabric piece is narrow, simply torture the tucks right through the middle of the pleat. i.e. Mark the centre of the pleated fabric width and draw a vertical line from the beginning to the end of the pleated fabric.
At your sewing machine, place the pleated fabric under the presser foot so as the pleating is folded towards you. Gently tip the edge of each pleat back under the presser foot and sew with either a straight stitch or a fancy stitch. Don’t fold the pleat too far back upon itself, you only need to turn it back a little, hence I call it “tipping”. No more than half the width of the pleat itself.
If your pleated piece of fabric is wide enough to take several rows of torturing, mark parallel rows approx. 4cm to 6cm apart. I use a Simflex Expanding Gauge for this as it is so much easier than calculating how far apart to have the drawn lines and have them all evenly spaced. I simply place the first point of the gauge a very generous seam allowance in from one side, then stretch the gauge out so as an uneven number (e.g. 3,5 or7) is distributed across the fabric having the last point again, a very generous seam allowance in from the other side of the pleated fabric. Mark the points distributed, top and bottom on the pleated fabric and draw parallel lines connecting these markings. This will make sewing easier and enable you to keep your sewing straight.
Personally, I torture every alternate row, then return to torture the remaining rows in the opposite direction. Never do I top and tail my stitching as this can often result in the fabric going crooked or puckered.
This technique is ideal for rippled waves or ploughed paddocks. Makes nice bird wings as ruffled feathers.
The above is sometimes referred to as High Tech Tucks or Mexican Tucks.
Twisted Ribbon Tucks:
As above, but insert narrow double sided ribbon or cord into the pleats and twist and turn the ribbon over as you torture the tucks. Several variations of this are possible, but it is usual to have the twisted ribbon underneath the pleat, not lying on top. Thus, only a small amount of ribbon peeps out in between the tortures. Double sided ribbon is necessary for this technique so as you don’t have different shading showing since there is no right or wrong side of the ribbon. I use 3mm double sided satin ribbon. Rat tail braid is easier to work with for this method since it is round and you don’t have to worry about twisting the ribbon over.
Honeycomb:
As above for marking, but this time alternate pleats are turned back over the previous pleat. The second pleat is turned back over the first, the fourth over the third, the sixth over the fifth and so on. Don’t be tempted to turn them right back over the previous pleat as this can pucker the fabric making it turn up at the sides from too much stress. I turn a pleat back to half way over the previous pleat. Use of different fabrics and of a different sized Pleat Maker often allows me to vary this “rule of thumb” though.
Mocked Smocking:
Pleat the fabric into every second pleat. Then, as above, except you will be turning the alternate pleat back to meet the previous pleat rather than overlapping them.
Some alternatives for stitching in rows could be hand sewing or machine sewing at the point of overlap, sewing a sequin, pearl or single fancy stitch at each point.
Pleated Pleats:
You will need a square of fabric for this method. Three times each way the finished size required.
Pleat a piece of fabric in the normal way but with no Fusi-Knit Interfacing attached. Replace the pleated fabric back into the Pleat Maker, but this time with the wrong side facing up and pleating the fabric the opposite way to the first time. Press with the Rajah Cloth™ and iron the Fusi-Knit Interfacing onto the pleated pleats whilst it is still in the Pleat Maker after the second run.
This method may be used with every pleat or with every second pleat.
Is ideal for a flower appliqué such as a Waratah or Protea. Slit on the wrong side of the appliqué and gently fill with a little batting such as in Trapunto Quilting.
Also makes a perfect thatched roof or cobbled paveway for those who enjoy textured scenery. Maybe a fluffy cloud or a farrowed paddock.
Continuous Prairie Points:
Fold a narrow piece of fabric (say 6cm) in half lengthwise and press. Pleat the fabric strip across the Pleat Maker at an angle, not necessarily on the bias, but close to 45 degree. I find this may vary according to the width of the fabric being pleated and which Pleat Maker I’m using. The Double Length Pleat Makers are ideal for anytime you are pleating on the bias as they allow more scope for maneuvering because of the longer length.
Press with a Rajah Cloth™. Cut a narrow strip of Freezer Paper and iron the shiny side onto the pleated fabric. Turn the Pleat Maker over and roll the pleated fabric off the pleater. Stitch right down the centre of the papered fabric the length of the strip. Remove the paper and trim a seam allowance away from the stitching.
This continuous Prairie Point strip may be used with either side as the right side.
Sandwich it between two fabrics as you would normally apply piping cord and it gives a really nice trim around a collar (yes, it will curve) across a pocket top, to separate a yoke from the body of the garment, down the front button placket, around a hem etc. A really wide one can be a substitute for a frill too.
For a larger Prairie Point, use a wider width of fabric and increase the angle you place it upon the Pleat Maker and maybe pleat into alternate louvres.
Variations of this are taught in my classes. Try using a fabric tube, lace or ribbon as an alternative.
The pleated strip of Prairie Points also makes a beautiful cabbage rose. Make the same as a ribbon rose. Roll the beginning of the Prairie Point strip tightly and secure by hand sewing the base. Gently, loosely wind the remainder of the strip around and around, securing with hand sewing as you go and trying to have the points of each round in between the points of the previous round. Mountains to the Valleys, gives a more natural appearance.
Secure well and attach to your project.
Fern Leaves:
Pleat a tube of fabric that has both ends enclosed as for the Prairie Points but have the angle very sharp, about 30 degrees across the Pleat Maker. The strip is then sewn through the middle down the length as you attach it to your project. Alternatively, it may be sewn through the middle as a strip, and then attached at the base to your project so as the leaf would be free standing.
Frills:
A ruffler is limited to a certain width and depth of pleat, whereas a Pleat Maker has more options and can certainly pleat heavier fabric that a Ruffler refuses to sew.
Simple fold a strip of fabric in half lengthways and pleat across the top of the Pleat Maker having the raw edges extending a very generous seam allowance beyond the edge of the Pleat Maker. I pleat into every alternate pleat as I feel this gives a softer frill. I also don’t press the pleats unless it is a very narrow strip of fabric.
Take the pleated fabric whilst still in the Pleat Maker to the sewing machine and stitch through the fabric only, a seam allowance from the raw edge. Don’t sew through the Pleat Maker! To continue pleating the full length of the frill, replace the last pleat of the first run into the first pleat of the second run and continue in this manner repeating each step above until the full length of frill has been pleated.
When attaching to a cushion, overlap two or three pleats when you turn each corner. This enables the frill to ease around the corners without puckering or pulling.
There are numerous variations of pleated ruffles and frills and these are taught in hands-on classes. Try pleated Cluny Lace or other lace or ribbon as an alternative to fabric frills. Double frills are possible having one fabric narrower than the other, but pleating them simultaneously. A combination of Cluny Lace and fabric is very popular and gives a lovely old world charm about it.
Fans:
The smaller sized Pleat Makers are preferred for pleating fabric to be made into fans because more fabric within the smaller pleat fans out with easier “settling”. Try a strip of fabric or lace approx. 10cm wide by 40cm (a little more than the normal 3 times the desired length). After pleating, with no Fusi-Knit Interfacing, place the fabric into position on your project and fan it out the desired distance. You may need to trim the length. Several options are possible; either have the top edge stretched out so as has no pleating left, or simply stretch it out allowing a small pleat at the top and the full pleat at the lower edge. The lower edge pleats may even overlap for a very full fan shape.
Lace, ribbon, fabric, or a combination is able to be used for fans.
Some stitching down into place may be necessary, depending upon the width of the fanned fabric.
Embroidered Pleating:
To machine embroider over a piece of pleated fabric, you will need to use a topping such as Solvy to prevent the sewing machine presser foot being hindered by the pleated fabric.
Shark’s Teeth:
It is possible to sew Shark’s Teeth but the steps are many and it really needs to be a hands-on class technique to learn. Using the Tuck n Point Guide Rulers make this so much easier than normal measuring too.
Insertions:
After pleating fabric, before the Fusi-Knit Interfacing is applied, you may insert ribbon, lace or jumbo ric-rac braid into the pleat. Turn over that particular pleat and stitch from the wrong side securing the insertion. Be careful to stitch in the crease of the pleat so as it is only through two thicknesses of the pleat, making it invisible from the right side of the finished pleating.
Ruffled Flowers:
Using a delicate soft fabric, pleat a largish piece of fabric, then scrunch up and attach at random to the base fabric of your project. The stitching is to hold down the ruffled pleats allowing some of the pleat to open out as in petals. Make sure all raw edges are tucked under as in a circle or stitched down in a circle. Try this with the pleated pleats method too.
Pleated Rosettes:
These are very popular for horse showing, particularly with a #1 placed in the centre, representing the “winner” or first placing.
The Petite or Mini Pleater should be used for these.
Pleat a long length of ribbon and press with the Rajah Cloth™.
Iron on a narrow strip of Reynolds Freezer Paper along the raw edge of the doubled pleated fabric or the extended edge if using ribbon.
Take off the Pleat Maker and run a line of gathering along this edge using double thread for strength or buttonhole twist thread.
Fan it out into a complete circle, gathering the thread and secure in the centre.
Pleating Stripes:
Striped fabric may have evenly distributed stripes or be varied. Any of them give remarkable zing when pleated on the bias.
If the stripe is two coloured and they are even widths, try pleating out one colour, and then torture the finished pleated piece. By pleating out one colour, I mean you tuck under one complete colour so as only the remaining colour appears to be pleated as the first colour is hidden in the return of the pleats.
Mocked Seminole Patchwork:
Pleat a striped fabric across the bias and a Seminole effect is achieved.
Alternatively, sew some strips of fabric together as in strip piecing having the darkest colour in the centre with a strip of Colour A either side, with a strip of Colour B either side of those. You will now have 5 strips of fabric. Pleat this across the bias and it really does look like Seminole Patchwork. Experiment with different widths of fabric, different angles and different placement of colours within your stripes.
Scalloped Pleats:
Pleat a wider piece of fabric and when completed, trace the scalloped shape onto it. Place on top of the main garment fabric and stitch along the drawn lines. Trim the unwanted pleated fabric away from the garment and trim the garment fabric away from the scalloped pleated section. You will need to camouflage the raw edges with a lace trim or fancy stitching.
Doll’s Clothes:
I prefer to use either the Petite or the Mini Pleat Maker for doll’s clothes. When making a skirt, so as there is “no hem”, I prefer to have the fabric doubled having the fold along the lower edge of the skirt. Reason for this is that it is very difficult to hem a pleated fabric.
To make any pleated skirt permanent, lay a fusible thread inside the pleat return on both the right side of the piece and on the wrong side. Place it inside each pleat and press to fuse. This will remain there and keep the pleat very crisp. If desired, you could also pin stitch the very edge of each pleat on both sides. I use an Edge Stitch Foot for this and use straight stitching.
Using Commercial Garment Paper Patterns:
Simply pleat a piece of fabric three times the width of the paper pattern and when completed with Fusi-Knit Interfacing, lay the commercial paper pattern onto the pleated fabric and cut out as in normal dressmaking. I usually draw the shape then stitch around that shape before I cut it out. I also use a little more than three times the width, just to be sure rather than sorry. Sometimes, you simply need to move the pattern over a little to suit the pleating for example and it sure is a nuisance if your pleated piece is just a tad short.
General Hints:
Sometimes I will spray starch a slinky fabric so as it will behave better and pleat easier rather than slipping and sliding out of the Pleat Maker.
Actually, spray starching the fabric once it is pleated before you use the Rajah Cloth™ makes the fabric really easy to handle too.
Use of a large Press such as an Elna Press works beautifully to control the pleats as it generates more pressing power than a household iron. Don’t forget to always use steam with a domestic iron.